I'm always a bit leery of clever new terms to describe something that isn't necessarily a new concept. It's one of those tricks marketing and brand managers whip out to impress their clients; the thought being that if you change the lexicon entirely, it'll make it seem like what you're doing is so completely new and unique that no one's ever thought about it before. Things like "cross-trainer" (sneaker) or "Pilates Stability Ball" (rubber ball). (It occurs to me that the fitness equipment industry is rife with these.)

It happens in the bar industry as well, and when I heard Jonesy's was billing itself as a "gastropub," my eyebrow cocked itself. Twice.

Gastropub is a newish term that's being used to describe taverns with decent food, more or less, as opposed to the "chicken fingers and mozzarella sticks" fare that is so ubiquitous in the tavern arena, especially sports bars.

To be fair, times are changing. People are demanding more from their corner pub than just a place to watch the game and toss a few back. People want places where the food is better than awful, the music isn't just metal and the digs aren't plastered with posters of women with beer logos emblazoned on them. Places where the light is more natural than neon, where wine comes in more options than "Red, White or Pink" and where your hands don't stick to the table.

Despite the cheesy marketing ploy, Jonesy's is just such a place. The food's a notch above "fried stuff with fried stuff on the side." They have an extensive wine list featuring wines by the half-glass, full glass and bottle.

Located in that nebulous area that's on the east edge of Five Points and the west edge of Uptown, Jonesy's blends a little bit of both attitudes. It's urban without being gritty, chic without being stuffy.

Does it qualify for its own special classification of new type of tavern though? I'm not entirely sure.

Certainly the service was very good. The winsome Rachel even brought us a dessert sampler on the house (Sea salt and pudding? Totally awesome).

But near as I can tell, "gastropub" must be even more than what might otherwise be called a pub, and I have been to local pubs with as good or better food who bill themselves simply as a pub.

Why is simply being a pub such a bad thing? You're in some pretty good company, aren't you? I mean, if you're at a local gathering of pubs, don't you think all the other pubs would find your distinction a little snooty? They probably wouldn't want to hang out with you, and when you left, they'd totally talk about how unflattering your dress was.

But like I said, that sense of pretension is purely in the marketing. In the flesh, Jonesy's a doll worth your time.

Jonesy's EatBar

400 E. 20th Ave.

303-863-7473

* Happy hour: Monday-Friday, 5-7 p.m.; $5 House Specialty Cocktails, half-price wine, well, and select local craft and domestic beers

* Lamb in burger form is good. ($12)

* Head in for brunch on the weekends; $10 mimosa pitchers