The last two times I've been to the Wash Park Grille I left wondering if I was going to come back. Most recently was a family brunch for my birthday.

Brunch (with a buffet) is not as easy on the server as you'd think. I'm pretty sure it's actually tougher; between the expediting and the plate-clearing and the omelette orders and the refills, servers run every bit as much as they would serving dinner. Then, too many people think, "Well, I'm getting my own food, I shouldn't have to tip as much," and the servers are left working harder for less.

So, I'm extra forgiving when I'm at brunch.

That said, the service that day was disastrous and fairly unapologetic, as it had been on my previous visit for dinner.

I bring this up because the Wash Park Grille has anchored the South Gaylord Street district for a long time, and the competition on that block is getting stiffer.

Hemingway's is gone, replaced by the better-fared Max Gill and Grill (1052 S. Gaylord St., 303-722-7456); The Tavern (1066 S. Gaylord St., 303-733- 0364) team has a new outlet where Las Margaritas used to be; and the other old face on the block, Reiver's, has undergone a bit of plastic surgery herself. And we're not talking spackle-and-sandpaper surgery like Joan Rivers.

I had never been to Reiver's before the change, but from all accounts, it was a dusty '70s holdover whose food was about as inviting as Christian Bale on a movie set.

Now, it's a much more popular destination, buoyed by decent food, a few creative cocktails and speedy, efficient service.

Creative cocktails? Well, they're nowhere near the artistry you'll find from an accomplished mixologist such as Root Down's Anika Zappe (who designed the famous Flomberg's Geisha for the now-defunct Pink Elephant Room), but anything that tastes like Welch's Grape Soda and packs a punch like a stiff martini has to be tried. Made with Three Olives grape vodka, Sprite and soda, the concoction would have fooled a Catholic at communion . . . and made the rest of the service way more fun.

The crowd at Reiver's is a mix of sports-seekers sharing views of the numerous flat screens throughout the room and Wash Park neighborhood denizens enjoying what looks to have become their unofficial corner bar. (Or maybe it's official - I certainly can't afford to live there, so I don't know if it's been decreed by the Wash Park Officiating Body of Bars and Stuff.)

The room certainly feels like it's old enough to have established its street cred without getting so long in the tooth that it smells like Bengay.

When you walk in the door, the first thing you see is the bar, which sets an appropriate tone for the night. Reiver's is a place to hang out and toss a few back first; food's not exactly an afterthought, more of an added bonus for sticking around.

At the least, Reiver's is establishing itself as the better corner bar in Wash Park.

Reiver's

1085 S. Gaylord St.

303-733-8856

* Happy hour: 3 to 4 p.m. Monday-Friday, reduced prices on appetizers and drinks (rotating specials)

* Trivia on Tuesday nights, karaoke Wednesday nights

* Try the Grape Press (grape vodka, soda and Sprite), $4